As a clear epoxy supplier, we've seen this material turn simple craft projects into genuinely polished, professional-looking pieces - and paperweights are one of the most rewarding places to start. Here's everything you need to know, from choosing the right epoxy to avoiding the most common mistakes.
Why Clear Epoxy Works So Well for Paperweights
Clear epoxy cures to a glass-like, crystal-clear finish, which is exactly what gives handmade paperweights their polished, professional look. It's also durable and scratch-resistant, so the finished piece holds up to regular handling, not just display.
The other big advantage is versatility. Clear epoxy lets you encapsulate almost anything - dried flowers, beads, glitter, small trinkets - preserving them in a permanent, protective shell that keeps its clarity for years.
Choosing the Right Clear Epoxy for Your Project
Different clear epoxy formulations suit different paperweight projects:
Fast Cure Clear Doming Epoxy Resin (E-1158-2 / H-1158-2) - Best if you're making paperweights in volume and want a quick turnaround between pours.
Anti-Yellowing Indoor Clear Epoxy Coating (E-2177 / H-2177) - Formulated to resist yellowing over time, keeping the finished piece clear well past the first year.
Anti-Yellowing Clear Epoxy for Leather, Wood, and Natural Materials (E-1188TT / H-1188TT) - The right choice if you're embedding natural materials like leather or wood, which need a coating that protects without discoloring.
LED Encapsulation Epoxy Resin (E-600 / H-600) - Built for high transparency and heat resistance up to 140°C, which also makes it a strong option if you want to embed small LEDs for a lit-up effect.
High-Strength Clear Casting Epoxy (EC-165 / HC-191) - Designed for larger river-table style casts, so it's a good fit for oversized or heavier paperweights that need extra structural stability.
What You'll Need
Clear epoxy (matched to your project from the options above)
Molds - silicone, plastic, or a DIY mold from cardboard and tape, cleaned and fully dried before use
Decorative items - dried flowers, beads, glitter, small figurines, or anything else you'd like encapsulated
Separate measuring cups for resin and hardener, plus stir sticks
Gloves and safety glasses
A heat gun or torch (optional, for clearing air bubbles)
Step-by-Step Guide
1. Prepare your workspace. Cover your surface with newspaper or a drop cloth - epoxy work gets messy. Make sure the room is well ventilated, since epoxy fumes can be strong.
2. Prepare your molds. If using silicone molds, dust them lightly with cornstarch or baby powder for easier release later. Arrange your decorative items in the mold first - keep dried flowers flat and thin enough for epoxy to flow around them fully.
3. Mix the epoxy. Follow your specific product's mixing ratio and cure time - these vary by formulation. Measure resin and hardener precisely in separate cups, then combine and stir gently but thoroughly for 2–3 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup to make sure nothing is left unmixed.
4. Pour the epoxy. Pour slowly and in one smooth motion to minimize air bubbles. If bubbles do form on the surface, a heat gun or torch passed gently and briefly over the surface will make them rise and pop - just avoid overheating, which can cause discoloration or premature curing.
5. Let it cure. Set the molds in a warm, dry spot and let the epoxy cure fully per the product instructions - this can range from a few hours to a few days depending on the formulation. Avoid moving or touching the molds during this window, as disturbance can cause unevenness or defects.
6. Remove and finish. Once fully cured, gently flex the mold to release the paperweight, using a small spatula or knife if needed. Sand any rough edges or excess epoxy with fine-grit sandpaper for a clean, smooth finish.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Air bubbles. Mix more slowly and thoroughly, pour in thinner layers, and use a heat gun or torch to clear any bubbles that reach the surface.
Yellowing. Choose an anti-yellowing formulation from the start, and keep finished pieces out of prolonged direct sunlight.
Sticky or uncured epoxy. This usually points to an inaccurate mix ratio or curing conditions that are too cold or humid - double-check the product instructions and make sure your workspace is warm and dry.
Final Thoughts
Making paperweights with clear epoxy is an accessible, rewarding craft once you've matched the right formulation to your project and followed a careful mixing and curing process. As a clear epoxy supplier, we're glad to help you select the right product for your application - contact us to start a procurement discussion.